Friday, March 11, 2011

Beautiful Tver!

I was graciously invited to join a small group on a special private tour of Tver - an old medieval town north of Moscow an hour by train.  I had been told that the “real” Russia is often found outside the bustling busy city -  a treat was in store.
There is a certain elegance to the Russian culture and architecture.  The wisps of snow on cathedral domes, the delicate detail of trim found on most buildings, even the bark on the trees seems to be special.  We found an old wood cathedral made without a single nail and were given a private tour of the School of Embroidery where girls learn to design with gold thread.  When it started to snow at the end of the day...I thought it was too good to be true.
I want to transport you to Tver - I put together a small collection of photos to share the experience (per the link below).  At the end you will see the group - flanked on either side by our tour guide on the left and our interpreter on the right.  I hope you see the beautiful elements I saw ... what else do you see?    


Enjoy Tver!


http://gallery.me.com/annriddle1#100039/The-20Russian-20Countryside-Mobile&bgcolor=black


Wednesday, March 9, 2011

The People!

Today, I was on a mission.  I wanted to capture the essence of the great people of Moscow.  On my way to and from the day's events, this is what I saw...



























Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Happy Women's Day!!

March 8th is Women’s Day and a national holiday in Russia....businesses are closed....and women are celebrated for their accomplishments made to society - who doesn’t like that??  All businesses worked this past Saturday (including Steve) so employees could get both Monday and Tuesday off for a long 4-day weekend.  Tradition has it that women are presented with gifts and flowers to express appreciation for their work, love and devotion - a combo Mother’s Day and Valentine’s Day.  My wonderful husband presented me with a beautiful bouquet of flowers!
Men’s Day was celebrated February 23rd - also knows as the Defender of the Fatherland Day.  It actually honors those who have and are presently serving in the Armed Forces.  During Soviet times, it was called Red Army Day.
We spent 2 days X country skiing this weekend at absolutely beautiful Izmailava Park. Very Dr. Zhivago-esque!  We were happy we were able to make the metro and tram trek to our destination - all with skis and boots on our backs...

Steve heading out among the trees...

A favorite past-time of Russians...


Working on form...


Trails in every direction....


And of course - a watering hole for an invigorating dip...we just say no.   A woman made an exit before I snapped this photo - thought best not to exploit.

Men playing volleyball in the snow...

Ice skating!

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Stories from a Russian...


Lena
I belong to a group within the American Women’s Organization called Understanding Russia.  We meet once a week at a group member’s home and listen to Lena, a native Russian and tour guide by trade, share amazing stories about the history, culture and people of Russia.  She is wonderful to listen to and allows us to ask questions about life under communist rule in the USSR...

1986
  • Pixar Animation Studios is opened.
  • In London, Prince Andrew, Duke of York, marries Sarah Ferguson at Westminster Abbey.
  • Greg LeMond wins the Tour de France.
  • Out of Africa wins Best Picture at the Oscars.

What were you doing?
I was graduating from high school and heading off to college - with all the comforts of life in the United States.  Boundless opportunities lay before me....
In her own words, this is what Lena, and most Russians, were doing in 1986...

My daughter was born in 1986. In my family we are still, today, using a spoon we bought for 65 kopeks, a fork for 55 kopeks and a knife for 60 kopeks which were presented to her when she was little, [insert my side note - 65 kopeks is the equivalent of about $.20 today - and much less back then].  I don’t have such a wonderful memory to remember the prices : they were stamped on almost every item produced by the Soviet industry. Prices were approved and fixed by the state and the same set of cutlery was sold for the same money across our big country.
I remember visiting the Ukranian State Department store on the main street in Kiev and got several pairs of children’s shoes of different sizes for my daughter to grow into. Those shoes were produced in Belorussia and were available in Kiev but were very hard to get in Moscow. Good quality shoes were a dream of every person in this country. As a guide working with American and British tourists I had a privilege of buying a pair of western quality shoes in a special shop once a year.  We lost this privilege in 1990-es during economic reforms in Russia.

Once at that difficult period we were offered to make an order for imported shoes, three pairs per person. Guides were very exited and stayed in the office waiting for the truck with the shoes to arrive after the working day was over. 11:00 p.m. we were told that we needed to come back next day as the truck was still somewhere on the way. Next day at 10:00 p.m. it finally arrived but unfortunately the sizes and fashions did not match the ones from our orders. Never mind! We bought whatever was offered : I gave one pair of shoes to my step daughter, the other one to my friend , and the third one I put on the shelf for someone from my family to grow into it. Some guides were more practical: they went to the market near Luzhniki stadium where people traded  shoes of wrong sizes and fashions for the ones needed. The good quality shoes were imported from Romania , Yugoslavia and Finland (the best!).  People would line for hours to get anything of good quality. We used the word “to get” rather than “to buy” (”Where did you get it?”) as with the inflation growing and fixed prices many goods were disappearing from our shops. A shop assistant in a store selling shoes could keep a pair under a counter for her friend till evening so the friend could buy it. Next time her friend could inform her say about new arrivals of chicken to her food store and keep one or two till her friend could come. It was easy to negotiated with the director of this or that store to inform you about goods you needed if you had something to offer in exchange.

Every year more and more goods were disappearing as people had lots of money and the prices did not grow. People were hoarding for the most basic goods afraid that they may become scarce. My 80 year old aunt recently told me (rather proudly) that she is still using soap, toilet paper, rice and buckwheat she had purchased 20 years ago.  In 1980-es the government introduced rationing  for butter (half a kilo per person in a line),  for  sugar, vodka. My grandmother and her babushka-friends would stand in different lines to buy as much as possible. Some of them shopped with young grandchildren to buy a double ration.  
I never had enough patience to wait in a line. Also I did not like it that often by the time your turn would come  the goods were sold. I had a different style for shopping.  I would go around my neighborhood and look into every food store: sometimes I would be lucky to be first in a line for new arrivals of meat or chicken.  Meat was usually sold with bones : first in the line I could pick up the best pieces with more meat on them. 

As compared to 1980-es the food situation worsened dramatically in 1990-es. Almost everybody was hoarding then. My retired neighbor asked me once to help . Her refrigerator went out of order, she wanted me to put her frozen meat into mine.  Instead of one or two pieces as I expected she had several kilos which we could hardly pack into our family freezer. Such supplies helped people to survive when prices were liberalized in January of 1992, and for a while we had a dramatic discrepancy between the earnings of the population and new prices in the shops. 

The most well known black market in 1980-es was near Space monument across the road of hotel Cosmos. Young boys were eager to buy or trade worn blue jeans for hard currency or caviar. 100 grams jar of black caviar was sold for 5 US dollars in the hotel itself by the waiters in the restaurant at lunch time.  It was so cheap that people did not care if they would be able to take it through the customs and out of the country. Once my group got  20 jars, and about 10 were detained at customs. My tourists gave them to me. It was a pity I did not like caviar, but my family was very happy!


Sunday, February 27, 2011

X-Country Ski Day...

We broke in our new skis today!  We met a great couple who took us XC skiing, (Eric works for Nike, Carly is a former Nike employee).  Another Italian couple joined us for a fantastic day!
With Carly and Nadia....church high on the hill...

Passing ice fishing tents...we were skiing on a frozen river.

Preparing to catch "the big one"!

This vessel skims atop the frozen river a million miles an hour, skidding into circles...

Ice hole for taking a dip - a large woman in very small undies took the plunge...

Me and Carly at the end of the trek...

Brand new equipment - could not figure out how to unlock my boots from the skis - so I hopped out....boots stayed on...(and I had the aid of 3 other experienced skiers!).

Sledding park...

A perfect landing...

The crew...hot soup, hot chocolate and beer!

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Doggie Delight...

Every once in awhile we’ll see very well behaved dogs roaming the streets of Moscow, solo....typically keeping up with the fast pace of the human foot traffic.  I’m always amazed at how disciplined they are -  never run into traffic, never sniff or approach people, never bark.  Who are these dogs?  Where are they going?  They seem to have a route.  Are they going to the grocery store?  Taking in a museum?  Perhaps on their way to see their buddy at the Bolshoi?  
I mentioned this to a friend recently and she said - “Oh yes, they even get on the metro by themselves and typically sit quietly in the corner”....???  Nothing like catching a train across town to spend the afternoon with Rufus.  How can this be?

Saw this guy on Saturday - on his way to pick up a date?

After a long day at the office...

Too much vodka...

Waiting patiently for his train...

    Monday, February 21, 2011

    The Moscow Metro!



    Word to the wise...do not...do not walk through the “out” turn style at a Moscow metro station!  Steve and I were metroing home from a dinner party Saturday night and discovered that, at 12:30 a.m., the metro authorities start to close down certain metro exits, (each station typically has two ways to enter/exit).  We discovered our exit was locked - so we turned around to make our way to the other end of the station.  Since our end of the station was closed, I made the fatal conclusion that  it surely wouldn’t matter which turn style I walk through (the “out” or the “in”).  In the photo below, you can see there is nothing stopping a person from walking through the "out".............so I did............and oh my goodness.............



    The dreaded "out"...



    Have you ever had your knees simultaneously clocked by a sledgehammer????  The Russians make it very, very clear when they don’t want you to do something...the slats on the sides of the turn style (above) have this device that shoots out in an attempt to fully maim anyone trying to beat the system - or, in our case, trying to find their way to the nearest exit.  A taser may have felt better.  I had to hobble around and walk it off for a minute until I regained consciousness......and......bonus round....I set off the metro alarm in the process.  And that puppy is no tinkling bell either.  Blaring sirens!!  I thought for sure Steve was going to have to bail me out of the slammer...  Alas, we made it home without authoritative incident.

    The Moscow metro system is renowned for its incredibly beautiful stations  - they are on the "must see" list for visitors, (more to come in a future blog with details).  The metro carries 8 million people every day (more than the subways in NYC and London combined) and is extremely reliable - a train arrives every 2 minutes, on average.  It truly is the best way to get around town...

    Most stations have very long escalators (used as bunkers in war time)

    Typical sign in a station - nyet Angliski (English)! 

    Another sign showing which lines transfer at which stations...

    Kiosks found outside most stations with clothing, pastries, etc...