Friday, March 18, 2011

Fries with your "BIG MAK"?



I’m going to keep this in mind the next time I find myself strumming my fingers wating in a slow fast food line....
In 1990 nearly 30,000 people lined up to be the first to eat the famous “Big Mak” at the grand opening of Moscow’s first McDonald’s.  It was the world’s largest McDonald’s with 28 cash registers and enough seating for 700 people...

(this is the opening of the first Parisian location - but gives the same idea)

Russians were unaccustomed to eating finger food/sandwiches.  Some ate their Big Mak with a spoon while others pulled it apart and ate it layer by layer. 

Today - there are McDonald's all over town with "walk up" windows rather than drive throughs.  There is always a line...




                   *Some of this content came from a post by Michael Anderson.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

A Sea of Soldiers...

Ever been walking down the street and got the sense that someone was right behind you?  Then turned around to find hundreds of Russian soldiers engulfing you on the street?  A British friend and I were exploring Red Square and the surrounding area.  As we looked over our shoulders - this is what we saw...



and over the railing...  



There is a slight undercurrent of an authoritative presence in Moscow. I come from a military family and have been around soldiers all my life but this experience caused me to give pause....for a split second. Unexpected, the image of a sea of soldiers was a bit daunting...until we realized - these young guys were fairly relaxed and quite human.




Found the officer’s hat in this photo fascinating - so very Russian.


Noticed 3 stars on the lapel of what appears to be a Naval officer in this photo...


These uniforms have such a “throw back” feeling - as if these soldiers just stepped out of war time.  Young men (ages 18 - 27) are brought into the Army via conscription (draft) in Russia in two call-ups each year.  Their term of service is 12 months then remain in the reserves. The Russian Army, 1 million strong, is the third largest behind China and the U.S.


Tuesday, March 15, 2011

The great thaw...

Russians believe spring starts March 1st.  Tell that to the thermometer.  Actually, we had our warmest day since we arrived yesterday - 41 degrees!  Complete heaven.  (Wow - has our perspective changed).  Went without gloves for the first time since our landing on November 30th. I wanted to break out my flip-flop sundress combo.  Steve and I were amazed at how the city came alive - tons of people walking in the parks, sitting on benches....doing a full-on Vitamin D soak!  Perhaps spring really is on the way - although we’re realistically bracing for at least one more cold snap before the city truly blossoms into fantastic.
This is a mild version of the “black ice” we’ve been traversing across all winter - glob 5 more thick, uneven layers on top of this - and that will about do it.  Fun times right there. 




Quite amazing...
  • We have a rotary phone in our apartment. When was the last time you heard the “click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click” after you dialed “9”?  Those under the age of 30 are wondering what I’m talking about...  
  • Our radiator heat is either “on” or “off” in our apartment - centrally controlled for the entire building.  If it gets too hot...we regulate the temp by opening a window...and letting in some snow.
  • We pay our electric bill by reading the meter outside our apartment and walking down to the bank and paying in Rubles each month.  We also stand in line at the metro station to buy a ticket from a woman behind the glass counter (very gruff and somewhat lite in the sense of humor department).  “Nyet, Rubles only!”  .....Yes m’am.
Can you tell we live in a Stalin era building?

  • No voice mail to speak of in Moscow.  If it’s important enough - track the person down and have a live conversation.  A touch light on the efficiency ratio.
  • Most Russians know very little English.  After a few minutes of trying to communicate - when we realize we’re going to stay lost in translation and it’s time to move on - we often get the only English words they know “good luck!” - which cracks us up each time.  They know, that we know, that they know we need it!  
  • 350 degrees on our oven here does not equal the same 350 degrees on our U.S. oven.  It took 2 charred frozen pizzas to figure that one out.  180 degrees C is 350 F.  And so the learning continues...
  • Renting an apartment requires a sign off on all, and I mean all, that comes with the apartment.  We thought that meant a short rental agreement addendum that mentioned the wardrobe closet that came with the apartment. They account for everything from the toilet paper holder, to the soap tray to the “bra light in the hall”... just realized we had one of those...who knew?

    “Made my day”...
    • Gave one of my hand warmer packets (winter sports fans use these ditties to keep the digits warm) to our interpreter on what was a freeeeeezing cold day in Tver.  He was amazed - had never seen one - an hour later he pulled me aside with astonishment and said “it’s STILL warm!”  It was if he had discovered electricity - he was thrilled....so was I.

    • Trying to find the XC ski park I asked an older babushka if I was taking the tram in the right direction - we were both lost in translation for a few minutes - charades was getting me nowhere.  She finally noticed I had a ski bag on my back, lit up and knew exactly where I was headed - arm and arm she walked me on to the tram and held on to me until my stop then walked me off the tram and pointed me in the right direction....she had become my babushka for the 10 minute tram trip.  A complete angel.


    • One of my XC ski poles broke and I ventured out to buy a new pair.  On my way home, a very old dadushka (yes....grandpa) stopped me and was so curious about my poles - not sure if he was asking where I bought them, what they were for, could he join me....?  I tired to charade it out for him and when we finally parted ways - I looked back over my shoulder and noticed he was wearing a Dallas Cowboys ski jacket!  It brought a huge smile as it is very rare to see any U.S. sportswear over here not to mention on someone who had been around for a long time and probably had some amazing Soviet and Cold War stories...

    Friday, March 11, 2011

    Beautiful Tver!

    I was graciously invited to join a small group on a special private tour of Tver - an old medieval town north of Moscow an hour by train.  I had been told that the “real” Russia is often found outside the bustling busy city -  a treat was in store.
    There is a certain elegance to the Russian culture and architecture.  The wisps of snow on cathedral domes, the delicate detail of trim found on most buildings, even the bark on the trees seems to be special.  We found an old wood cathedral made without a single nail and were given a private tour of the School of Embroidery where girls learn to design with gold thread.  When it started to snow at the end of the day...I thought it was too good to be true.
    I want to transport you to Tver - I put together a small collection of photos to share the experience (per the link below).  At the end you will see the group - flanked on either side by our tour guide on the left and our interpreter on the right.  I hope you see the beautiful elements I saw ... what else do you see?    


    Enjoy Tver!


    http://gallery.me.com/annriddle1#100039/The-20Russian-20Countryside-Mobile&bgcolor=black


    Wednesday, March 9, 2011

    The People!

    Today, I was on a mission.  I wanted to capture the essence of the great people of Moscow.  On my way to and from the day's events, this is what I saw...



























    Tuesday, March 8, 2011

    Happy Women's Day!!

    March 8th is Women’s Day and a national holiday in Russia....businesses are closed....and women are celebrated for their accomplishments made to society - who doesn’t like that??  All businesses worked this past Saturday (including Steve) so employees could get both Monday and Tuesday off for a long 4-day weekend.  Tradition has it that women are presented with gifts and flowers to express appreciation for their work, love and devotion - a combo Mother’s Day and Valentine’s Day.  My wonderful husband presented me with a beautiful bouquet of flowers!
    Men’s Day was celebrated February 23rd - also knows as the Defender of the Fatherland Day.  It actually honors those who have and are presently serving in the Armed Forces.  During Soviet times, it was called Red Army Day.
    We spent 2 days X country skiing this weekend at absolutely beautiful Izmailava Park. Very Dr. Zhivago-esque!  We were happy we were able to make the metro and tram trek to our destination - all with skis and boots on our backs...

    Steve heading out among the trees...

    A favorite past-time of Russians...


    Working on form...


    Trails in every direction....


    And of course - a watering hole for an invigorating dip...we just say no.   A woman made an exit before I snapped this photo - thought best not to exploit.

    Men playing volleyball in the snow...

    Ice skating!

    Wednesday, March 2, 2011

    Stories from a Russian...


    Lena
    I belong to a group within the American Women’s Organization called Understanding Russia.  We meet once a week at a group member’s home and listen to Lena, a native Russian and tour guide by trade, share amazing stories about the history, culture and people of Russia.  She is wonderful to listen to and allows us to ask questions about life under communist rule in the USSR...

    1986
    • Pixar Animation Studios is opened.
    • In London, Prince Andrew, Duke of York, marries Sarah Ferguson at Westminster Abbey.
    • Greg LeMond wins the Tour de France.
    • Out of Africa wins Best Picture at the Oscars.

    What were you doing?
    I was graduating from high school and heading off to college - with all the comforts of life in the United States.  Boundless opportunities lay before me....
    In her own words, this is what Lena, and most Russians, were doing in 1986...

    My daughter was born in 1986. In my family we are still, today, using a spoon we bought for 65 kopeks, a fork for 55 kopeks and a knife for 60 kopeks which were presented to her when she was little, [insert my side note - 65 kopeks is the equivalent of about $.20 today - and much less back then].  I don’t have such a wonderful memory to remember the prices : they were stamped on almost every item produced by the Soviet industry. Prices were approved and fixed by the state and the same set of cutlery was sold for the same money across our big country.
    I remember visiting the Ukranian State Department store on the main street in Kiev and got several pairs of children’s shoes of different sizes for my daughter to grow into. Those shoes were produced in Belorussia and were available in Kiev but were very hard to get in Moscow. Good quality shoes were a dream of every person in this country. As a guide working with American and British tourists I had a privilege of buying a pair of western quality shoes in a special shop once a year.  We lost this privilege in 1990-es during economic reforms in Russia.

    Once at that difficult period we were offered to make an order for imported shoes, three pairs per person. Guides were very exited and stayed in the office waiting for the truck with the shoes to arrive after the working day was over. 11:00 p.m. we were told that we needed to come back next day as the truck was still somewhere on the way. Next day at 10:00 p.m. it finally arrived but unfortunately the sizes and fashions did not match the ones from our orders. Never mind! We bought whatever was offered : I gave one pair of shoes to my step daughter, the other one to my friend , and the third one I put on the shelf for someone from my family to grow into it. Some guides were more practical: they went to the market near Luzhniki stadium where people traded  shoes of wrong sizes and fashions for the ones needed. The good quality shoes were imported from Romania , Yugoslavia and Finland (the best!).  People would line for hours to get anything of good quality. We used the word “to get” rather than “to buy” (”Where did you get it?”) as with the inflation growing and fixed prices many goods were disappearing from our shops. A shop assistant in a store selling shoes could keep a pair under a counter for her friend till evening so the friend could buy it. Next time her friend could inform her say about new arrivals of chicken to her food store and keep one or two till her friend could come. It was easy to negotiated with the director of this or that store to inform you about goods you needed if you had something to offer in exchange.

    Every year more and more goods were disappearing as people had lots of money and the prices did not grow. People were hoarding for the most basic goods afraid that they may become scarce. My 80 year old aunt recently told me (rather proudly) that she is still using soap, toilet paper, rice and buckwheat she had purchased 20 years ago.  In 1980-es the government introduced rationing  for butter (half a kilo per person in a line),  for  sugar, vodka. My grandmother and her babushka-friends would stand in different lines to buy as much as possible. Some of them shopped with young grandchildren to buy a double ration.  
    I never had enough patience to wait in a line. Also I did not like it that often by the time your turn would come  the goods were sold. I had a different style for shopping.  I would go around my neighborhood and look into every food store: sometimes I would be lucky to be first in a line for new arrivals of meat or chicken.  Meat was usually sold with bones : first in the line I could pick up the best pieces with more meat on them. 

    As compared to 1980-es the food situation worsened dramatically in 1990-es. Almost everybody was hoarding then. My retired neighbor asked me once to help . Her refrigerator went out of order, she wanted me to put her frozen meat into mine.  Instead of one or two pieces as I expected she had several kilos which we could hardly pack into our family freezer. Such supplies helped people to survive when prices were liberalized in January of 1992, and for a while we had a dramatic discrepancy between the earnings of the population and new prices in the shops. 

    The most well known black market in 1980-es was near Space monument across the road of hotel Cosmos. Young boys were eager to buy or trade worn blue jeans for hard currency or caviar. 100 grams jar of black caviar was sold for 5 US dollars in the hotel itself by the waiters in the restaurant at lunch time.  It was so cheap that people did not care if they would be able to take it through the customs and out of the country. Once my group got  20 jars, and about 10 were detained at customs. My tourists gave them to me. It was a pity I did not like caviar, but my family was very happy!